basalt of which it is composed produces an effect
which is dull and lifeless, unrelieved by the green of trees and
shrubs as in the ruins of Kanawat (Kanatha); while the crude and
unsightly hovels which constitute the buildings of the modern village,
hide from any general view much that would be beautiful if it could be
seen. For, although the village occupies hardly a sixth of the area
within the ancient walls, it is so placed as to cluster in all its
squalor close about the walls and columns of the best preserved of the
ancient buildings. The general effect of the ruins after one has
entered the West Gate is far less striking than that of a distant view
from far out on the Roman road that leads from Der'a. The prospect
gives the illusion of a surging sea of broken basalt, with column
shafts and capitals of the same material borne, like flotsam, upon its
surface, or half concealed beneath its waves. The forbidding and
sombre walls of the Arabic fortress appear to guard a promontory to
the southeast, and a poor village of basalt and mud, clinging about
the bases of a few ancient columns, and pressing close to the grim
black walls and tall square minarets of half a dozen mosques, seems to
rise from a low-lying shore. The West Gate which introduces most
travellers to the city is a fine and imposing monument; for its high
arch and ornamented façade stand to almost their original height. But
one must traverse a wide area of the basalt sea before encountering
another object of interest. This next monument I have called the
Central Arch; it stands parallel to the main street, facing north; one
face is well preserved, the other is in complete ruins. A little
farther towards the east, and on the left as one approaches, are four
Corinthian columns of large scale, set diagonally upon a square formed
by the meeting of two streets; they are bereft of an entablature, but
compose the most beautiful of the monuments of Bosra. A step farther
on, across the street which opens out to the north, is a Corinthian
column of striking height and slenderness joined to a lofty wall with
niches in it. Due north, about 24 metres away, stands a similar
column, but no corresponding wall. The two belonged, without doubt, to
the same building. The buildings just described are the only ancient
ones in all Bosra that can be found without searching among the later
buildings, save a few tall columns of the Corinthian order which tower
above the fiat, mud covered, house tops. The Theatre is completely
hidden by the mighty walls of the Arabic castle, for the construction
of which the fine draughted ashlar of the city walls was purloined,
the East Arch is more than half hidden by houses, the Palace to the
southeast of it is visible from one side only; while the great
building, or buildings, on the "akropolis", which are represented by
standing columns of the Roman and Nabataean periods are impossible to
measure, or to plot out, owing to the congested state of the modern
village around them. The large Baths which lie to the south of the
great columns are packed full and closely crowded all around by
dwellings and stables. In the opposite direction the broken vaults and
massive walls of a large edifice stand up well above the roofs of a
group of houses. This ruinous conglomeration of heavy Roman
constructions which goes by the name of Khan id-Dibs — the honey Khan
- is so thickly beset by native buildings that its various parts seem
to be disconnected until the whole is surveyed and put upon paper.
Northward from this great structure is a group of houses in the
court-yards of which the pavement and several columns of a colonnaded
street are to be found, in connection with long walls, well built of
highly finished masonry with many doorways in them, which originally
constitued the fronts of shops. When the plan of these remains has
been extricated from the mass of later buildings, it appears that this
spot was the meeting place, or crossing, of two important streets.
Following the line of one of these streets eastward along a narrow
modern alley with ancient columns built into, a wall on the left, one
emerges upon an open space bounded on the east by the ruins of the
Cathedral, the front wall of which still preserves a part of its lower
storey, though its interior is filled with a heap of rubbish. Behind
the Cathedral is a group of ancient residential buildings part of
which probably belonged to the Episcopal Palace. These residences are
still inhabited, and have been altered within to meet the requirements
of the present occupants. One wall preserves three storeys of windows.
To the north the well finished walls and gable ends of Dêr Bohêra
stand out as the;best preserved of the buildings of Bosra, and , a
little further along in the same direction, one encounters the curved
walls of two apsidal constructions which are quite hidden by modern
buildings. Between this point and the North Gate is another building
with two apposed apses lying north and south. The North Gate itself is
visible only in foundations which give a plan like that of the West
Gate. Near the north wall of the city are the scant ruins of another
large bath. Westward from the North Gate is a copious spring with
steps descending on all sides. This is still the chief water supply of
the town and the meeting place of all the inhabitants. It was
undoubtedly dignified in ancient times by a more symmetrical setting,
with steps like the seats of a theatre leading down to the water on
all four sides, and was surrounded with columns. The principal remains
of Christian architecture, outside the Cathedral group, are found in
the southeast quarter of the city. These consist of three churches no
one of which preserves more of its original structure than is just
sufficient to mark it as a basilica of the Christian period. All three
were poorly constructed. Church No. I is the best preserved of all. It
lies southwest of the Palace. Its entire plan is to be traced in walls
and column bases. Church No. 2 consists only of an apse and side
chambers, but the foundations of its west wall are traceable in the
ruins. The largest of these churches is No. 3 which stood between the
South Baths and the „Kalybe" ; it is represented by its north wall,
one side chamber, and one compound pier of its apse. In addition to
these more strictly architectural monuments of the Roman and Christian
periods just described, the ruins of Bosra embrace several great
public works of construction that lie just within, or just outside,
the city walls. These are first, two great reservoirs which are
believed by some writers to belong to the mediaeval period. One of
them lies to the east of the city, and is not shown upon the map. It
is almost completely ruined, having been preyed upon for building
stones. The other, which lies in the southeast quarter of the town is
quite intact, and often contains water; although its importance as a
birkeh has greatly diminished since the old hadjdj route through Bosra
has been abandoned for one farther west. The ancient Hippodrome on the
south side of the city is difficult to see, because it has been
divided within and hidden without by a maze of garden walls. It is
possible, however, to measure the entire outline of its outer curve
and long sides; while its tiers of stone seats are visible at two
points on the inside where they have been incorporated with garden
walls. A complex of heavy walls, one of which curves at its northern
end, is to be seen to the west of the Castle, near a section of the
Roman wall of the city which was joined on to a very ancient wall of
bowlders. The term Naumachia has been applied to a huge depression in
the northwest quarter, which certainly has every appearance of having
been artificially excavated. Its sides and west end are cut down in
straight slopes. Although its east end is uneven, and looks like a
natural slope, this is perhaps only buried in debris, and may be like
the other sides. A few seats, like those of a Roman theatre, are to be
seen lying on the north side. Two springs at the bottom of the
depression supplied a means of flooding the place, and naturally
suggested the name which has been given to it. The remains of
Mohammedan architecture outside the Castle are chiefly the mosques
which are scattered well over the area within the walls, suggesting
that the Arab city was almost, if not quite, as large as the city of
Roman days. Five of these mosques remain, in addition to one in the
Castle, and another which is known to have existed near the Central
Arch, but which has been wholly destroyed. Only one of them is in use
to-day — Djami il-Fatmeh —; another, the Djami il-Khidr, is in good
preservation but disused, the others stand partly ruined, their walls
and minarets being preserved, while their roofs have fallen in. Like
the Castle, the mosques were built out of the ruins of Christian and
Pagan buildings, most of them having been constructed on the
principles of architecture peculiar to the earlier styles employed in
the Haurân.
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